Sunday, August 23, 2009

Chartres

Yesterday (Saturday) I motivated and actually did something cultural. I got up early (07:00) and went to Gare Montparnasse to get a train to the town of Chartres. Coworkers/friends had been and raved, gushed, awed about the cathedral there. I will say upfront, I was underwhelmed. I like the Cathedral and the Basilica in Reims better, and other cathedrals I've seen.

The train ride was an easy one hour, and the walk to the cathedral from the train station is simple. I got there about 11:00 and even though it was a bright, stunningly sunny and beautiful day (like today), there wasn't much light coming in through the multitude of stained glass windows - that was a surprise to me, and a disappointment. One thing I found quite strange was how my sneakers squeaked on the floor. It seemed most people's shoes squeaked. What did they use to clean the floor? Weird.

I did a walk through and then decided to walk through the town, hoping that by coming back to the cathedral in an hour or so that the windows would be more 'alive.' The town is nice, quaint, typical French. Market was open, some stores closed due to August holidays. The Swarovski store was closed which ticked me off because that would have been the one place I wanted to go!

When I meandered back to the cathedral, I decided to walk around the outside of it to the back and from there, the views of the town are great as are the views of the cathedral (photos posted on Flickr). Going back inside, only a few specks of light were evident from the sun through the windows - still not a 'wow' moment.

Other things that made it underwhelming :
--The choir area is being renovated, so when you walk in, instead of being able to see all the way down the nave, into the choir, and to the chapel at the far end, your gaze is abruptly stopped at the altar by a floor-to-ceiling cover (nicely done though). I think this prevented some of the sunlight from getting in and through the stonework.
--Chairs were set up in the entire nave, covering over the labyrinth pattern in the floor.
--The South Rose Window was covered over for renovation
--The South Portico (outside) was behind scaffolding for repair/cleaning

I was surprised to find a Zodiac stained glass. You could really spend a lot of time looking at the detail of the windows, but I think you'd need binoculars because they are so high on the walls that it is difficult to see the detail from the ground level.

I'd like to do some more research and go back when it is not being renovated and to find out what time of day to go to have the windows be at their most brilliant.

Overall though, a truly amazing structure that was started in 1195. It survived some calamities while under construction, survived many wars, the Revolution, and two World Wars (the windows were removed for both).

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