Thursday, June 25, 2009
I Don't 'Heart' NY
Anyway, I find the city too big, too loud, too busy. I really do not like Midtown - to me, it has no charm, no character. Midtown is all offices and shopping, I find restaurants and bars few and far between. Yes, I know you have to go uptown or down to the Village for such things, but I don't want to do that. I do not like the Metro here.
Some other random observations this week :
--New Yorkers commute in high heels (well, the women do), and most of them cannot walk gracefully in them. They are either teetering, lurching or stomping ; and, the heels themselves look like they're going to break off from such misguided walking.
--New Yorkers do not commute with iPods or other music devices - don't they need something to block out the noise?
--Why aren't museums open later in the evening (i.e. MoMA and the Met)? And why is admission for each $20?
--What happens to all the half-used bars of soap that are in hotel rooms when people check out? I cannot imagine these are rewrapped. Even if the cleaning crew took them home, they'd have pounds of them. So, where do they go? Ok, we all take the mini bottles of shampoo, but bars of soap?
--The Grand Hyatt on 42nd & Lex is tired. Compared to the Hyatt's in Madrid, London and Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, this one should be ashamed to have the Hyatt name. Fine, I understand if the decor is a bit outdated - it takes a lot of money/time/logistics to renovate - I get that. But the meeting facility services are sub-par, in my opinion. No one comes to clean away the dirty breakfast glasses/plates, instead they pile up all day - we had to put one tray of them in the empty room next door - that tray was still there the next morning. What they charge for said 'breakfast' service is absurd.
--I absolutely LOVE Pandora radio and keep hoping that all the copyright and legal issues will be fixed so it becomes available in France. Whenever I'm in the US I log in, go through my stations, and just have fun. Sure, if you are in the US and listen to it a lot, certain songs and artists repeat too often, but if you are only in the US 2-3 weeks per year, it's all new to you!
One more evening in NYC before heading back to Boston for the weekend, then back home to Paris. Not sure what I'll do tonight in the city.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Love that Dirty Water
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Ireland Day 1 : Dublin
Well, I finally made it to Ireland! And honestly, it was a bit of a let down. Probably because I’d been wanting to go for so long, and looking forward to this trip for several months. And, probably because the time I was there was spent in two cities - Dublin and Galway - and not out in the green fields and country side. But, that’s not to say I didn’t have fun and enjoy the holiday weekend!
Marissa (friend/colleague) and I decided to go to Galway the weekend of May 29/30 to see the Galway in port racing as part of the Volvo Ocean Race (formerly the Whitbread Ocean Race). We left Paris Friday afternoon and got to Dublin about 15:00. We took the bus into the city to Heuston station and thankfully our hotel was just across the river. We stayed at the Best Western Ashling Hotel which was very nice - remodeled, quiet, close to the train station, and easy to get on the tramway into the city centre. On the bus ride in, I couldn’t decide if I thought that all the construction sites in progress were signs of growth and progress or if they were abandoned and signs of the severe slow down in the Irish economy (Ireland is being hit very hard but the economic downturn).
We made it in just enough time to drop off our bags and walk down to the Jameson Distillery for the last tour of the day!!! (Even though it started about 20 min before it says it does on the website) Definitely a high point of the weekend for me. Unfortunately, whiskey is not made at this (original) location - it is all made in the south of Ireland, in Midleton. The tour guide we had wasn’t that good, i.m.o. The champagne cave tours were much better - more informative and more interesting since you were seeing actual bottles aging. But, the tour came with a tasting at the end, and thank goodness there were less women on the tour because 4 men and 4 women could volunteer for the ‘special’ tasting which meant : 1 dram Jameson, 1 of Johnnie Walker Black and 1 of Jack Daniel’s. I don’t like scotch and I don’t care much for JD, so obviously I liked the Jameson! Marissa and I both bought whiskey and souvenirs in the shop so then went back to the hotel to drop off our purchases.
We went back into the city using the new tramway system and wandered around a little - we walked into the courtyard of Trinity College (reminded me of the inner courtyards at Yale) and along Temple Bar. This is definitely a capital city, a tourist city, and a university city. It was very crowded and to me, it just didn’t have much of a ‘feel’ to it. I feel like the Liffey River that runs through the city really cuts it in half and doesn’t make it feel like it has a united city centre.
We had dinner at an Italian place then ventured along Temple Bar until we found a pub that wasn’t obscenely crowded - we got seats at the window and enjoyed our Jameson while people watching - which was definitely in top form due to the number of stag and hen party groups out and about!
We made it a semi early night because we had a 07:05 train the next morning to Galway.
Giverny, Monet and Vernon
Yesterday (Saturday) I went to Vernon and Giverny with friend/colleague Julia. It was a great day with great weather and an easy 45 minute train ride from Paris to Vernon.
If only Julia and I were both feeling better than 50% the day would have been perfect. Of course, it was all due to the two of us going out after work Friday and not calling it a night until 1 a.m. However, the many glasses of wine were warranted since we went directly from work to Forum des Halles to Go Sport to buy a tent and sleeping bags. Okay, pick yourself up off the floor - yes, I wrote that I bought a tent and sleeping bag. This is for the Springsteen concert Julia and I are going to in July at the outdoor music festival Vieilles Charrues in Carhaix, Brest (France) (caution - music plays when you open that website!). Of course, I have only been camping once before and it rained so hard that we packed it up and went to a local motel! Fingers crossed for July!
Anyway, we left work at 17:30 and after walking through the underground maze that is the Chatelet Metro stop, fighting through the crowds of people at des Halles (and there are A LOT of people there), and buying a tent, we stopped at Cafe Pont Neuf on Quai de Louvre and enjoyed some white wine and a charcuterie plate. We then had enough motivation to walk over into the 6eme arrondisement, closer to Julia’s place, with the tent and sleeping bags, and stopped at a local cafe that Julia loves. Somehow it went from 20:00 to 01:00 before we knew it!
So, Saturday morning and a 10:20 train departure came earlier than I preferred. We met and left from Gare Saint Lazare and were in Vernon by 11:10. We wandered around the town trying to find a place for lunch - of course, nothing that we wanted (i.e. pizza) was open until Noon. But, we stumbled upon Our Lady Collegiate Church and went inside - very nice, typical town church, and the organist was rehearsing. Begun in 1072 in Norman Romanesque style, the final structure was finished in 1610 (I think). It was damaged during air raids in WWII, which shattered all the stained glass. But, what was very nice was that instead of replacing the windows with clear glass, they put in more modern, colored stained glass windows. The rest of the town is nice with some very old buildings that are severely slanted. And, the town is on the Seine which is quite nice and wide here - picturesque and refreshing.
We decided to follow the advice of the Giverny website and walk to Giverny from Vernon. It is a lovely walk - you are definitely out in nature and away from the city - all you can hear is the rustling of trees and the birds.
Thanks to the advice of another colleague, we bought our entrance tickets online beforehand which meant we did not have to wait in the obscenely long line and just went in through a side door. And walking to this side door was cool because you walked under a bridge of ivy/flowers/greenery and you could hear the hum of bees above you.
The gardens are stunning, especially now in June with all the rose bushes in full bloom. Of course, I have no idea what the flowers are besides ‘purple ball’ and ‘tall blue thing’. One problem with the gardens is that the walkways are so narrow and you are allowed to walk in any path you want (i.e. not on a conveyor belt tour from point A to B) that it gets very congested.
You have to go on a pathway under the street (what used to be the railway line) and walk up to the water lilies (les nympheas) and that surrounding garden. The restoration team has certainly done a good job because you really feel like you’re looking out on the same landscape that Monet himself saw.
I say restoration because when Monet died in 1926, he left the house and gardens to his son, but he did not live there. The grounds eventually became neglected and upon his son’s death in the 1960s, they were bequeathed to the Academie des Beaux-Arts. Renovation began in the late 70s and took 10 years - as the website says, trees were growing in the big studio in the house and a stairwell had collapsed.
We opted to take the bus back from Giverny to the Vernon train station because we were so tired by this point and the thought of walking 6+ km again was not pleasant. We went to a cafe and rehydrated while we waited for the train back to Paris - definitely plan your trip accordingly because the trains are NOT frequent in either direction - i.e. 2 to 3 hours between each.
Oh, and don’t get too accustomed to me posting about something so soon after it happens!
(more photos posted on Flickr via link on sidebar)